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  • ―一九二〇年代の「モガ」化粧と一九三〇年代のアイシャドウ使用―
    増渕 美穂
    日本民俗学
    2021年 308 巻 56-75
    発行日: 2021/11/30
    公開日: 2023/08/02
    ジャーナル フリー

      This “research notes” examines the characteristics of Japanese eye makeup from the 1920s to the 1930s based on changes in its depiction in Yomiuri Shimbun. These changes in eye makeup in Japan also reflect modern Japanese cultureʼs unique process of incorporating Western culture into its own culture.

     

      The notion of beauty changed after Japan emerged from its isolation in the Meiji era. The so-called moga (short for “modern girls,” or flappers) used eye makeup in the 1920s that was not a suitable style for Japanese women because this consisted of shading around the outline of the eyes. This was criticized by the public as inappropriate for the Japanese people. In the 1930s, the cosmetics experts introduced a makeup method that suited Japanese features. With this method, shadow was added to the edges of the eyes and blurred in a way that looked natural. Eye shadow was widely introduced in the media in the 1930s as makeup for going out at night or when wearing Western clothes.

     

      Based on the above analysis, this article explains the makeup practices widely taken up in the media between the two world wars. Specifically, it clarifies the following three points: First, eye makeup methods in the 1920s were different from those in the 1930s. Second, Japanese moga played an important role in incorporating Western culture into Japanese culture. This is because the moga’s use of eye makeup brought about further changes in the concept of beauty and the use of eye shadow in the 1930s. Lastly, the correct method of Western style makeup was introduced around the 1930s by cosmetologists who acted as teachers. They showed that the correct method was what was suitable for Japanese features.

     

      In addition, this study also shows that makeup in Japan was strongly influenced by social norms imposed on women, which significantly shaped makeup methods in daily life. When Western style makeup methods were used in Japan, it was necessary to make changes to avoid contravening Japanese womenʼs norms.

  • 緑川 ゆかり
    産業教育学研究
    1998年 28 巻 2 号 25-32
    発行日: 1998/07/31
    公開日: 2017/07/18
    ジャーナル フリー
    The theme of this paper is to clarify the "shifting to school" process in training for a hairdresser before the war, from apprenticeship to school education. The school defined here is Kakusyu Gakko (a school in the miscellaneous category) established under Shiritu Gakko Rei (Private school law) enacted in 1899. Consequently, "shifting to school" means transforming from apprenticeship to Kakusyu Gakko. How did the skill and knowledge required to a hairdresser change as a result of the transformation of training style? I discuss the internal aspects of this change from the following two points. First, western hairdressing technique such as marcel wave and permanent wave were introduced into Japan from abroad and both waves became popular in about ten years. Since western technique was not found in Japanese hairdressing skill, hair dressers such as Chieko Yamano who returned from abroad with this western technique attracted public attention, Kamiyui became a profession called a hairdresser. The professional faculty as a hairdresser could be acquired either by becoming an apprentice to such a hairdresser returned from abroad or by taking school education. As it was possible both to master a general cosmetology in a short period and to learn only western hairdressing at school, with the popularization of western hairstyle, Kamiyui who had a training under a Japanese hairdressing apprenticeship started to go to school to acquire western hairdressing technique. One of the factors in "shifting to school" was caused by the fact that western hairdressing technique was brought to the Japanese hairdressing apprenticeship, in other words, to the Japanese hairdressing skill. Secondly, the introduction of cosmetology technique examination system is thought to be a determinant factor in "shifting to school". It was 1930 that the first examination was executed in Tokyo under the control of the Metropolitan Police Department. Business activities were not permitted without passing the examination. It was a written examination testing the knowledge of hygiene, rules and regulations required for business activities. A practical examination was not enforced until 1947. The Metropolitan Police Department considered testing the knowledge of such fields to be the main point of this examination. The schools increased the number of lectures given by professors studying subjects related to the examination or established new schools in order to prepare for the examination. The number of schools built between 1929 and 1931 amounted to seven. Since fifteen schools were founded between 1913 and 1935, approximately half of the total schools were established in this period. The other factor in "shifting to school" was caused by the fact that the knowledge for written examination was attached great importance as a requirement for a hairdresser's qualification.
  • 『紀伊國屋月報』『レツェンゾ』を中心に
    和田 博文
    昭和文学研究
    2006年 52 巻 13-24
    発行日: 2006/03/01
    公開日: 2023/05/15
    ジャーナル フリー
  • 制度化の視点から
    藤﨑 朋子
    労働社会学研究
    2011年 12 巻 31-63
    発行日: 2011年
    公開日: 2022/04/15
    ジャーナル オープンアクセス
    This paper aims to examine the process by which barbers' techniques and labour became institutionalised in the formative years of the barber industry in Japan.) Drawing on secondary sources and interviews with the staff of a vocational school, the paper focuses on the role of a textbook on haircutting theory, which was widely consumed among barbers and students at barber schools and that was responsible for the consolidation of what was then considered to be standard techniques. The training of barbers, which had hitherto been based on the apprentice system, was unified into school education system during the 1950s that called for a partial amendment of the Barber Law. Meanwhile, with a view to ensuring barbers' effciency in work and management, the Barbers Union brought the theory and techniqucs of haircutting into modules at barber schools. The findings demonstrate that, although the standardised techniques of haircutting promised barbers rational labour, their uniformity turned so obsolete in the wake of Japan's consumer society in the 1970s onwards that they have held little appeal to students in hairdressing. As a result, the standardisation of barbers' techniques and labour has given rise to conflict, which has eventually led to the decline in the number of barbers in favour of beauticians.
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