-
- History of Ashland
- from the City
of Ashland Comprehensive Plan
-
-
- Ashland's
History and Historical Resources
-
- There
were settlements in the Willamette Valley, and gold was being mined in
northern California, when, during the winter of 1851-1852 two pack train
operators who were passing through this southernmost part of the Oregon
Territory discovered gold at Rich Gulch, a tributary of Jackson Creek. News
of the strike spread, and soon there was a tent city, the place we know
today as Jacksonville, on the banks of Jackson Creek.
-
- Up
until this time, the Bear Creek Valley, a flat fertile valley protected on
the west by the Siskiyou Mountains and on the east by the Cascades had been
inhabited only by small, scattered bands of Takelma Indians. They found this
a hospitable place, with abundant fish, game and edible vegetation. The
Indian bands moved from place to place in the valley gathering food and
materials for their livelihood.
-
- Their
peace was disturbed by the miners who flocked to the Jacksonville/Applegate
area, and then by the farmers, who were either newcomers or discouraged
miners who found new wealth in the rich fields and creek valleys.
Families from all parts of the country, encouraged by the Donation Land
Claim Act of 1850, came to make their free claim up to 320 acres, build
homes and till the land. Many of Ashland's earliest settlers came for
this reason, the Walkers, Dunns, and Hills among them.
-
- Jackson
County was so designated by the Oregon Territorial Legislature on January
12, 1852. Six days earlier, Robert
Hargadine, and his partner, a man named
Pease, had taken up a Donation Land Claim and built a log cabin in the
narrowing end of the Bear Creek Valley, about where the railroad Station is
now in Ashland. They were soon joined by Abel
Helman, Eber Emery, Jacob
Emery, James Cardwell, Dowd Farley and A.M. Rogers who also decided to stay.
Helman filed on a Donation Land Claim adjacent to Hargadine's.
-
- There
was need for sawed lumber in the valley, so the men built a water-power
sawmill on the banks of Ashland Creek. Then they built a flour mill in what
is now the entrance Lithia Park. Business grew around the open space in
front of the mills and people began to call it the Plaza.
-
- Settlers
came to the Plaza from neighboring farms to trade their wheat for flour, or
to purchase lumber for improved cabins and homes. The California-Oregon
Trail route passed through the little community and travelers bumped over
ruts in the summer and tracked through mud in the winter pass either
direction.
-
- Gradually
stores and small businesses appeared on the Plaza and some individuals, who
made their living by them, built homes nearby. The earliest homes were built
on Main Street, then on Granite and Church Streets.
-
- Ashland
developed gradually during this time, and, perhaps then, got its roots as a
solid community where people came to stay, to live their lives. Unlike
neighboring Jacksonville, which began as a boomtown, and later Medford,
which developed with the coming of the railroad, Ashland grew slowly as
people moved into the area or as generations of families grew up.
-
-
- The
First Twenty Years
-
- Ashland
was named after either Ashland, Ohio, or Ashland, Kentucky, in both of which
the early settlers had ties. The Ashland Mills Post Office was established
in 1855 - it took six months to get mail from the east - and the town became
official. In 1871, the word "Mills" was dropped.
-
- Ashland,
a growing community of 50 by 1859, was a stopping point on the
California-Oregon Stage Company's route. A hotel was built to accommodate
travelers, then a school on East Main Street near where Gresham Street now
intersects. A sawmill and shop were set up, then a planing mill and cabinet
shop. In 1867, the Ashland Woolen Mills were built on the banks of Ashland
Creek where B Street now intersects with Water Street. Underwear, hosiery,
shawls and blankets were all made from wool produced locally. Nursery stock,
brought to Jackson County by Orlando Coolidge and his wife, Mary Jane, and
planted on "Knob Hill" is credited by many as stimulating the
fruit industry of Southern Oregon. W.C. Myer brought imported stock to his
farm just north of town. The barn still stands in a field near the railroad
overpass on North Main Street.
-
- The
Methodist Episcopal Church, organized in 1864, held a conference here in
1869 and it was suggested that Ashland would be a "remarkably
fine" place for an institution of higher learning. The Ashland College
and Normal School
that was housed in a building on the site where Briscoe
Elementary School now stands was the forerunner of today's Southern Oregon
University.
-
-
- Growth
and Incorporation
-
- Ashland
grew faster than any other Oregon town south of Portland during the 1870s
and 1880s. As the shallower mines in Jackson County were worked out and
abandoned, agriculture became the main industry. The production of wheat and
oats, corn and hogs, sheep, hay, honey and potatoes made farming profitable
and this in turn brought more people.
-
- Ashland,
population 300, was incorporated on October 13, 1874.
In the first issue of The Tidings, published June 17, 1876, the
editor remarked, "There is no church and no saloon, but whiskey is sold
by the bottle and preaching is done in the schoolhouse; and therefore, the
people
are generally happy."
-
- The
Methodist Church was built on the corner of North Main and Laurel Streets,
then the Presbyterian Church on North Main and Helman Streets. Land for a
Catholic Church was purchased, and a First Baptist Church was organized.
-
- Fire
destroyed many of the wooden business buildings on the Plaza in March 1879.
That summer they were replaced by a number of brick structures, including
the Masonic Hall, the Perrine
Building, and the IOOF
building. The Ashland Library and Reading Room
Association was established, and in 1880, Alpha Chapter, Order of Eastern
Star, was established in Ashland. It was the first Eastern Star chapter in
Oregon.
-
- There
were 854 people living in Ashland on September 28, 1880, when President
Rutherford B. Hayes, Mrs. Hayes, General Tecumseh Sherman and their
entourage made a brief stop here. They were greeted by a crowd of some 2000.
A platform was built on the Plaza and an arch was made of evergreen boughs.
Under the greeting "Welcome to Oregon" was Ashland's motto,
"Industry, Education, Temperance - Ashland honors those who foster
these." There were speakers, and four little girls presented President
and Mrs. Hayes with a tray of peaches, pears, apples, plums, grapes,
blackberries, almonds and figs, all grown in Ashland. The stagecoaches then
rolled on to Jacksonville where the presidential party spent the night in
the U.S. Hotel.
-
-
- The
Coming of the Railroad
-
- For
two decades, Oregon had been relatively isolated from the rest of the world
and wanted the opportunity to ship goods in and out. Ashland had bountiful
crops, products of mills, and a desire for growth, but no practical way to
carry on trade outside of the local area.
-
- One
of the most important events in the development of Ashland, therefore, was
the coming of the railroad. Track was being laid south from Portland north
from Sacramento. On May 4, 1884, the first train rolled into the Ashland
station from the north pulling a short string of mail, express and passenger
cars.
-
- Shouting
and waving from the windows was a group of people in high spirits who had
gone as far north as five miles to ride the train into town. Waiting at the
station were the Ashland Brass Band, predecessor of today's Ashland City
Band and a number of dignitaries with speeches and congratulations.
-
- Ashland
was the southern terminus of the railroad for three years. Merchandise and
passengers were carried on south over the Siskiyou Mountains by freight
wagons and stagecoaches. The Golden Spike that connected the Southern
Pacific's San Francisco-Portland line was driven in Ashland on December 17,
1887. This completed the circle of railroad tracks around the United States.
Ashland was a railroad division point. Already twenty-one employees
lived here, and more were to come to build homes, rear families and
participate in the development of the community.
-
-
- Development
& Growth
-
- The
coming of the railroad meant fruit could be exported. Apple, pear and peach
orchards were well established. Thousands of fruit trees had been planted
and a number of five- and ten-acre tracts near town had been cleared of
brush and turned into fruit farms. South of the Plaza were orchards planted
by S. B. Galey, who planted the first peach orchard for commercial purposes.
The Galeys and the Henry B. Carters (Mrs. Galey's parents) were prominent in
local affairs. They felt every self-respecting city should have one wide,
main street, a thoroughfare that would provide a sense of dignity, so they
laid out, right through the middle of their orchards, a boulevard 60 feet
wide. The grand new avenue led nowhere until U.S. Highway 99 joined it late
in the 1930s. All travel through the city then was along East Main Street.
-
- Ashland's
entire street system got attention in 1888. The city spent $3,000 grading,
putting in culverts and crossings, and improving, somewhat, the muddy mess
that was the Plaza. In response to a petition, the city council ordered
construction of one and one-half miles of solid planking sidewalks.
-
- By
the late 1880s, Ashland had a bank, two schools - South School and North
School - a small
college, the Ashland Electric Power and Light Co. (which
produced enough electricity to light the city streets and homes), the
Ashland Hotel (a beautiful brick building that stood on Main Street between
Oak and Pioneer Streets), the Depot Hotel (at the railroad station, this
hotel had forty sleeping rooms and a large dining room). There were stores
and shops, a real estate and insurance office, several livery stables, a
laundry, bakery, doctor, dentist ... and a swimming pool called Helman Baths
that had been opened to the public by Grant Helman who enjoyed swimming in
the sulfur springs on the Helman property. By now, Ashland also had five
saloons.
-
- The
Ashland Gold Mine was discovered in the hills west of town in 1891. It
tapped a rich mineral belt which was known to extend more than 200 miles
between Yreka, California and Cottage Grove, Oregon.
-
- The
mine and three ingots of its bullion displayed on the Plaza were proclaimed
"harbingers of a Golden Era." Plagued with disputes over property
rights and legal problems, the mine was worked on an on-again, off-again
basis until 1942 when it was closed as a wartime measure.
-
- Ashland High
School's first graduating class - Miss Lora Colton, valedictorian; Oley
Thornton, salutatorian; and Miss Moody Scott, who read an essay - received
their diplomas on May 22, 1891, before a packed audience in the Ganiard
Opera House (this stood on Main Street at the comer of Pioneer Street and
was used for many public gatherings).
-
-
- Chautauqua
Chooses Ashland
-
- Chautauqua,
a traveling program of lecture seminars and entertainment that originated in
New York, was the first mass education entertainment program in this area.
-
- The
Southern Oregon Chautauqua Assembly was organized in Central Point in 1892.
The plan was to hold meetings in a grove near that town, but at the
encouragement of George F. Billings of Ashland and others -- they pointed
out that Ashland had electric lights, city water and a better hotel that did
Central Point -- it was decided that Ashland, where there was a small
college and a wooded site on a hill above the Plaza, would be a more
suitable spot.
-
- A
bond issue in the amount of $2,500 covered the cost of land acquisition, the
building, and the first year's program. A large beehive-shaped building was
built and the first Chautauqua program was presented in it in 1893.
-
- People
came from miles to camp in Roper's Grove on the banks of Ashland Creek, and
indulge
themselves
in the luxury of culture. Admission was low, $1 for the ten-day season, in
order to keep the support of the people and make it possible for all to
attend.
-
-
- Ashland
College and Normal School
-
- Ashland's
"institution of higher learning," now called The Ashland College
and Normal School, had been approved as a state institution, but allocated
no money. It closed its doors for lack of funds and the school district
bought the property on North Main Street.
-
- In
1893 Portland University said if the people of Ashland would furnish land
and provide a building, the university would endow the school in Ashland and
make it a branch. The Carter Land Company made a gift of a campus site
(about where Beswick Way and Normal Avenue
now
intersect Siskiyou Boulevard) and a building was started. Before it was
finished, however, Portland University withdrew its offer. Under the
leadership of Professor W.T. VanScoy, and with funds raised by the citizens
of Ashland, the building was finished, furnished and renamed Southern Oregon
State Normal School. In 1899, the state accepted the property and endowed
the school.
-
-
- Turn
of the Century
-
- January,
1900. There were 3,000 people in Ashland, the largest town in Jackson County
(population 15,000). There had been no boom, but steady, continued growth.
Fifty new homes had been built during the last year and several business
buildings. There were no vacant houses to rent. People were coming from
various parts of the coast and from the Middle Eastern states. Ashland was
known as the "home town" of Southern Oregon.
-
- It
was also a payroll town. The Southern Pacific Railroad payroll ran from
$7,500 to $10,000 per month. The woolen mills, flour mills, creamery
(Ashland had the only creamery in the county), a sawmill, two planing mills,
the Ashland Iron Works (doing a brisk business with the miners and
lumbermen), and the Ashland Canning and Evaporating Company all contributed
to this payroll. Fruit and vegetables raised here were shipped by the
thousands of boxes -- the "Ashland peach" was known all over the
Pacific Coast, and Max Pracht orchards took a World's Fair premium for
peaches in Chicago in 1893. There was a noticeable increase in activity in
timber harvest, and stockraising was an industry of considerable proportions
in the foothills near Ashland.
-
- Ashland
claimed industry, beauty, charm, culture, diversified resources, bright
business prospects, and the "sweetest flowers and prettiest girls in
the world."
-
- On
January 21, 1900, the Ashland Woolen Mills, considered one of the most
important manufacturing industries in the state at that time, burned.
Thirty-two Ashland workers were without jobs.
-
- In
September, 1900, Ashland's first brick school building was constructed on
Siskiyou Boulevard (on the site
now occupied by the Safeway store). Hawthorne School served as a grade
school, then a junior high school.
-
-
- Main
Street Develops
-
- Main
Street began to develop during 1904 with brick business buildings replacing
a number of homes. The Fourth Street business section was, by now, well established. Many new homes were built, including the C. C. Chappel
residence on Siskiyou Boulevard, known today as the Swedenburg
House. (Most
home construction ran between $1,000 and $2,500; the Chappel house cost
$7500.) Mountain View Cemetery was opened, and the city spent $25,000 to
install a "comprehensive sewer system."
-
- It
was in 1908 that the fire department replaced its two hand- pulled hose
carts with a hose wagon pulled by horses. This was phased out in 1913 with
the purchase of a gas-powered fire truck.
-
-
- Library
and Hospital
-
- For
seventeen years the ladies of Ashland had maintained a library collection.
"Although fiction
- predominates,
it is generally good fiction, "said the state librarian. Following a
controversy over whether or not Ashland should build a library building with
"tainted" money offered by industrialist Andrew Carnegie, who was
funding libraries all over the world, a formal application for $20,000 of
Carnegie money was made. The reply was that $15,000 would be given if the
city would provide a site and a maintenance fund. There was so much
controversy over the site -- on the knoll near the Chautauqua building, on
Meade Street, on Siskiyou Boulevard at Gresham Street -- that the matter was
settled by election. The library was built on Gresham Street and ready for
use in 1912. The total cost $17,673.
-
- In
March 1909, fire extensively damaged the Southern Oregon Hospital that had
been operating for eighteen months in a converted private residence on Main
Street. Discussion of the need for a newer, larger facility led to the
backing of the Commercial Club, and the construction of the Granite City
Hospital on the south side of Siskiyou Boulevard, near the intersection of
Palm Avenue, about where Stevenson Student Union now stands.
-
- The
Commercial Club worked to promote growth in Ashland but was powerless to
help when, in 1909, the state legislature withdrew all normal school
support. The doors of the Southern Oregon State Normal School were closed
and nailed shut. Alumni and citizens immediately set to work to get it
reopened, but it was fifteen years before that goal was achieved.
-
-
- Parks
for Ashland
-
- "Ashland
the beautiful must be deserving of its name," said the members of the
Women's Civic
Improvement
Club. They raised money to buy land on Siskiyou Boulevard between Liberty
and Beach Streets so it could be developed into a triangular park, they
inaugurated a system of small parks in town, and they were instrumental in
getting the landscaped strip down the center of Siskiyou Boulevard and shade
trees planted in residential park rows.
-
- The
Chautauqua grounds had been improved by the Ladies Chautauqua Park Club, and
now the ladies began to press the city council for assistance in an expanded
program. The flour mill on the Plaza had been closed and abandoned. At the
rear of the big building was a pigsty, a barn, and mud puddles. The
Chautauqua building stood on the hill above this unsightly mess that also
produced flies and gnats.
-
- The
ladies talked of razing the mill and making this a park entrance.
Immediately there was a wail of protest from some of the businessmen who
felt the land was too valuable and should be used for business purposes, and
from some of the "dear old pioneer women" who felt the mill was a
landmark and should be preserved.
-
- On
December 17, 1908, the people of Ashland, by a vote of more than five to
one, dedicated the old mill site for a city park. They also approved a tax
levy. In 1909, an additional forty-five acres of land south of Chautauqua
Park, bordering Ashland Creek was purchased.
-
- The
mill was torn down; a park board was selected. Ashland was soon known not
only for the annual Chautauqua, but as a town with a park. This first park
in Southern Oregon was used for all large public celebrations.
-
- Although
Ashland had just built a new school, classrooms were becoming overcrowded
again. In 1911, the new high school building on Iowa Street, between Morse
and Mountain Avenue, was opened. Crowded conditions were once again
alleviated.
-
-
- The
Lithia Water Era
-
- Following
discovery of a Lithia water spring in the hills east of town, the idea
occurred in 1911 to Bert Greer, editor of The Tidings, that Ashland might
become a famous health spa like Carlsbad, Germany, or Saratoga, York.
Meetings were held and there was great enthusiasm until it was learned that
owners of the spring refused to cooperate. Then another spring, finer and
just as accessible, was found, and the project surged forward.
-
- Mass
meetings took place, chemists analyzed the water, land adjacent to the
Chautauqua Grove was acquired for additional park development, and a bond
election was scheduled. The promotion committee brought in John McLaren,
designer of Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, and top-ranking Southern
Pacific railroad officials. Songs were written and slogans such as
"Ashland Grows While Lithia Flows" were chanted. The election
carried, providing $175,000 to pipe the water to town (it cost $50,000 more
by the time it was done), and McLaren was retained to landscape the new
Lithia Park.
-
- In
1915, the work was completed; the health-giving water bubbled from fountains
in the park, at the railroad station, the hotel, the library and the Plaza,
but no more was heard of plans to make Ashland a spa city. The community
enjoyed the park and went on to other things.
-
- School
grounds were landscaped during the early 1900s, a "city beautiful"
campaign encouraged the tearing down of many old barns and outbuildings, and
Main Street continued to develop. The Vaupel Store/Oregon Hotel
building was
built, as was the Elks Temple, the first building in Southern Oregon with
poured solid cement walls. The Vining Theatre, a magnificent theatre that
had box stalls and a most ornate interior, opened in May 1914, with the
opera "Faust."
-
- The
people of Ashland were also enjoying swimming in the twin pools of the big,
new Ashland Mineral Springs Natatorium building. This grand structure was
expected to help bring visitors to Ashland. Along with other features, it
had a solid maple dance floor, which doubled as a skating rink.
-
-
- Improved
Highways
-
- In
1913, there was a "better roads" movement in the West. The
decision was made to build a Pacific Highway over the Siskiyou
Mountains, a
highway that would follow nearly the same route as the Siskiyou Mountain
Wagon Road, which had been operating as a toll road. Governor Oswald West,
state highway commission members, and about 100 prominent citizens joined
for a ground-breaking ceremony near Ashland and the governor predicted the
Pacific Highway linking Oregon and California would be the "scenic
boulevard" of the west. (In Ashland, East Main and North Main Streets
would become part of this interstate route.) In order to cut costs, however,
only an eight-foot wide strip was paved.
-
- Several
years later engineering began for building a highway over Greensprings. The
original Greensprings Mountain Road was not much more than a trail chopped
through the trees, a trail that led from the settlements in the Rogue River
Valley to the homesteads in the Klamath Basin. There had been increased
pressures to lay out a better road because of the number of families who
were moving between the two areas, and because of the movement of freight.
-
-
- Troubles
for Chautauqua
-
- The
24th annual Southern Oregon Chautauqua season of 1916 lasted for twelve days
and brought an excellent program, including a concert by the Marine Band,
but there was a deficit of $200. Directors felt if the building were
enlarged to seat more, it would pay for itself. The Chautauqua
"tabernacle" was replaced with a new building -- the cement walls
enclose the Oregon Shakespearean Festival's outdoor Elizabethan theatre, but
under the combined pressures of the radio, the automobile, and poor
management which took the program planning out of local hands, the Golden
Age of Chautauqua was coming to an end.
-
-
- Ashland
Granite
-
- An
off-again, on-again industry here for more than forty years was the
quarrying of granite. In the late 1880s, a ledge of stone comparable in
quality to the famous Barre granite in Vermont was discovered on Nell Creek
and worked spasmodically until about 1916 when W.M. Blair took it over and
decided to develop it.
-
- Blair
harvested money and bought enough machinery to fill small orders. The Lithia
water fountain on the Plaza was built of Ashland granite. Ashland granite
was used in the construction of the post office in Salem and to build the
rotunda and steps of the Washington State capitol building at Olympia. In
1918, it was considered for construction of the First National Bank in
Portland, but rejected because Blair could not get out such a large order
promptly.
-
- Later
a group of local men tried to sell enough stock to form an operating company
and finance a larger operation, but nothing came of their venture. The
quarry remains today as it was last worked in the 1920s, a gash in a canyon,
its perpendicular walls rising above a streambank strewn with huge chunks of
glossy, gray granite.
-
-
- World
War I
-
- April,
1917. America declared war on Germany. Young men from Ashland enlisted in
the Army and the Navy, and the families who stayed behind helped by buying
war savings stamps and bonds, supporting the many war charities, knitting
scarves and caps, collecting clothes for war orphans, feeding troops who
passed through Ashland, and doing whatever they could to support the war
effort.
-
- December,
1918, World War I was over. The Tidings published an article saying:
Practically all the youth of the city answered the call of the country and
entered into military or naval service and a large majority of able-bodied
men responded to the call for labor at shipyards and war industries...
Social life of the community was extremely quiet... Merchants reported good
sales...There was an increase in the payroll of railroad employees, crops
and fruit brought good prices, and the men who left and worked in war
industries sent money home.
-
-
- The
1920s
-
- In
1920, the Pacific Highway over the Siskiyou Mountains was widened to a
sixteen-foot strip, a surface highway was being built over the Greensprings,
Oregon was growing, and, in Ashland, the mood was optimistic.
-
- Ashland
businessmen invested money in the development of shale oil beds on the
backside of Grizzly Peak, and they built the nine-story Lithia Springs
Hotel. When the hotel opened in 1925, it was advertised as the tallest
building between San Francisco and Portland.
-
- Another
distinctive feature of downtown Ashland was the Enders Store. On Main
Street, extending between First and Second Streets, a series of separate
buildings was opened into one so that there was a corridor -- an inside
shopping mall -- running the entire length of the block.
It
was during the 1920s, however, that many of Ashland's "great visions of
the future" began to fade.
-
- Little
or no more effort was put into the promotion of Lithia Water. The Ashland
Mineral Springs
Natatorium
failed (this has been attributed to many things, including the advent of the
bathtub in the home and motorized travel, plus the building of outdoor
swimming pools), and Chautauqua faded into nothing. The tabernacle was
abandoned, the dome crumbled, weeds grew and the walls flaked off in chunks.
-
-
- Train
Robbery
-
- The
most publicized crime ever to take place on the Southern Pacific Railroad
lines occurred near
Ashland
on October 11, 1923, when the DeAutremont Brothers blew up Train No. 13 in
Tunnel No. 13 on the Siskiyou
Mountains. The brothers -- Roy, Ray and Hugh -- shot and killed three
trainmen and a postal clerk when they dynamited the mail car, which was so
badly damaged that they were unable to collect any loot from the smoking,
steaming tunnel where the attack took place.
-
- One
small scrap of evidence, a registry receipt for a letter mailed by Roy
DeAutremont found in a pocket of a pair of overalls left at the scene, put
police on the track of the brothers. Four years later, Hugh was arrested in
the Philippines, Roy and Ray were apprehended in Ohio and returned
to Jackson County for trial. All were given prison sentences for the crime.
-
-
- Campus
Moved, School Re-Opens
-
- In
1925, the state legislature appropriated $175,000 to re- establish Southern
Oregon State Normal School. Because of a desire to have the campus closer to
the center of town, the city gave twenty-four acres on Siskiyou Boulevard,
where Churchill Hall was constructed and served as administration and
classroom building.
-
- Doors
opened at this location on June 21, 1926. The school since has operated
continuously as a state supported institution.
-
- It
was also in 1926 that the Ashland School District, once again feeling the
need for more classrooms,
enlarged Hawthorne School to serve as the Junior High School, and purchased
land on Beach Street to construct Lincoln School. This project received
financial assistance from the state because it was used as a training school
for teachers being trained at the college. West Side School was re-named
Washington School.
-
- Ashland
now had a high school, junior high school, two elementary schools, and 1,519
children on the census rolls.
-
-
- Southern
Pacific Deals a Blow
-
- In
1927, the Southern Pacific Railroad Company opened the Natron cut-off, a
straighter, better, newer, more efficient and more economic route over which
to move passengers and freight between California and Oregon. The Natron
line left the main north-south line at Black Butte, just south of Weed, and
headed north through Klamath Falls, rejoining the main line again at Eugene.
It eliminated the Siskiyou grade, one of the steepest in the nation, and it
nearly eliminated Ashland.
-
- The
railroad company continued to maintain its division point, repair shops,
etc. at Ashland, but all the
fast freight and the best passenger service were re-routed. There remained
only two through trains per day. Most of the crews were moved out. Some
families packed up their things and left for new jobs, others were
transferred. The economic impact on Ashland was nearly disastrous.
Businesses lost some of their most regular customers, and at least one
business closed. Landlords lost renters, organizations lost members, and the
whole area of town now called the Railroad District changed character.
-
- During
the late 1880s, when the first railroad employees and their families arrived
in Ashland and built homes, the Railroad District became a small community
of its own. Fourth Street, where remnants of some of the old establishments
can still be seen, was the center of business activity. People were coming
and going. There were hotels and rooming houses, eating houses, liveries,
and stores opened to serve both the passengers and the neighborhood
residents. After the railroad began using the Natron line, there was little
activity to keep this district alive.
-
-
- The
Depression
-
- The
1920s culminated in Ashland, as in the rest of the country, with the stock
market crash in October 1929. The community struggled along to get through
the Depression years of the 1930s. Most residents continued life as usual,
finding ways to live and raise their families. Many citizens who lived here
during these years recall that life did not change drastically, partly
because the size and relative isolation of Southern Oregon had fostered a
resourcefulness in people who had long tried to make a living here.
-
-
- Crime
& Violence
-
- During
1931, a year of rum-running and violence, Ashland was known as "Little
Chicago."
- A
blast on the fire siren was recognized as an all-out call for help and more
than once a "war-like" atmosphere prevailed as heavily armed men
combed streets and countryside" looking for bandits and killers, the
Tidings reported.
-
- In
January, Sam Prescott, a city police officer, was shot and killed on
Siskiyou Boulevard by a
professional
rum-runner. The runner's car carried thirty-five cases of liquor, a cargo
valued at 3,000.
-
- In
April, two men held up the State Bank on the Plaza. One was killed by the
clerk in a nearby drug store who shot him as he attempted to escape carrying
$100 in currency, and the other escaped. "Not long ago we observed that
with modern highways, it would be only a matter of time till bank bandits
… la Chicago would try their skill in these parts ... The incident calls
attention to the fact that Gov. Meier is at least on the right track in his
efforts to create a state policing system," said The Tidings.
-
- In
November, Victor Knott, an Ashland merchant police officer, was shot and
killed while on night patrol in the Railroad District. The man who killed
Prescott was hanged. The man found responsible for Knott's death was given a
life sentence for murder, second degree. In 1945, he was granted full
commutation of sentence.
-
-
- Two
Men with Special Talents
-
- A
young man named Angus Bowmer arrived in Ashland in 1931 to teach English
composition and public speaking at Southern Oregon Normal School. The school
at this time had a faculty of thirteen an 250 students.
-
- The
abandoned Chautauqua shell caught his attention. In it he saw a
"peculiar resemblance" to a 17th Century sketch of
Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. As Ashland prepared to celebrate July 4, 1935,
Bowmer encouraged the city to include a three-day festival of Shakespearean
plays produced in the Elizabethan manner. The festival was considered a
success and more productions were scheduled for the next summer. In this
rather inauspicious way, the Oregon Shakespearean Festival came into being.
It continued to grow under the leadership of Angus Bowmer, founding
director.
-
- Another
man whose special talents have contributed a great deal to Ashland is
Chester C. Correy, who came in 1935 as assistant park superintendent. In
1937, he was named superintendent, a position he held for thirty-two years.
It was under his direction, and to his design, that many sections of Lithia
Park were developed.
-
-
- Southern
Pacific Reduces Service
-
- In
1931, through passenger service between Portland and Oakland via Ashland and
the Southern Pacific Railroad's Siskiyou route was reduced to one train a
day. In 1938, this service was terminated. There was one train a day from
Portland to Ashland and return, and one from San Francisco to Grants Pass
and return, but no through trains. The "crack" trains were routed
over the Natron line. Passenger service in and out of Ashland was reduced a
bit at a time until it was finally cut off all together in the 1950s.
-
- At
the close of the 1930s, Ashland industry included a cannery, an iron
foundry, a box factory, creamery, granite works, car shops, and a dry ice
plant located near the Lithia Springs. Sawmills in the mountains near town
also provided work. And, the importance of tourism had been recognized. In a
booklet, "Where Nature Lavished Her Bounties," published by the
county, Ashland was described as the "front door" to Oregon.
Ashland's clean air, abundance of water and scenic beauty were recognized as
potential economic assets.
-
-
- World
War II
-
- In
1940, the Oregon Shakespearean Festival, which had been gaining each year in
quality and in
- popularity,
played its last season for the next seven years. Its closure was in response
to the new focus of America's
energy, World War II. Ashland's young men left to join the military and the
community rallied to support them. Families left behind participated in war
relief efforts, and kept track of the war events through letters, the
newspapers and radio. As in all small towns, most families gave up a loved
member or shared the grief of their neighbors.
-
- Housing
was extremely scarce in Ashland during the war years because of the large
Army training camp built on Agate Desert just out of Medford. On weekends,
the streets were filled with servicemen milling around, looking for
something to do. Camp White was activated in August, 1942. It was a training
center for between 36,000 and 38,000 troops at any one time. Wives and
families of the regular post personnel came when, and if, they could find a
place to stay. Many of them made Ashland their temporary, wartime home.
-
- The
college declined in population through these years and by the end of the war
it was at its lowest ebb. A new president, Dr. Elmo Stevenson, came to the
school to try and rescue it from failure. Dr. Stevenson found enthusiastic,
talented and dedicated educators to welcome the returning servicemen and
other students. During the next few years, education again became a strong
part of the Ashland scene. Enrollment climbed from a low of forty-five in
1945 to 782 in 1949.
-
-
- Post
War Ashland
-
- The
Shakespearean Festival re-opened in 1947 and replaced the old theatre,
which had suffered fire damage late in 1940. The Festival began to attract
more participants and a larger audience.
-
- Ashland
grew after World War II. To meet a need, two new schools, Walker Elementary
School and the George A. Briscoe Elementary School, were built. Briscoe
replaced the old Washington School, but Walker stimulated the growth of a
new residential area. Land that had been farmed was subdivided for homes.
-
- The
demand for lumber immediately following World War II saw a proliferation of
small, family-owned sawmills in and near Ashland. By the early 1950s, there
were more than a dozen mills in town, many of them running three shifts a
day. Log ponds, drying sheds, and stacks of lumber awaiting shipment meant
jobs, and jobs meant money. People didn't talk about air pollution; they
simply swept away the soot that came from the wigwam burners.
-
- Because
railroad access was important to the shipping of lumber, most of the mills
were located adjacent to the tracks, generally from Helman Street to the
Mistletoe Road area. The mills substantially contributed to the economy of
Ashland until the mid to late 1950s when the attrition rate of family-owned
operations soared following the arrival in Jackson County of the large,
diversified wood products manufacturers.
-
- Some
Ashland men and women who had retained active reserve status following World
War II were called back into military service in 1950 when Communist North
Korea attacked the American-supported regime of South Korea and the United
States sent troops to resist. This was the last military action or
history-making event that was "remote" from Ashland.
-
- In
August 1953, television came to the Rogue River Valley through the local
broadcasting station, KOB1- Television 5M. Ashland, 101 years old, was now
part of the visual, instant world. A spectacular but costly event occurred
in August 1959, when fire swept from the hills above Jackson Hot Springs
along the forested ridges above and toward Ashland. Audience members at the
Shakespearean Festival that warm summer night watched "Antony and
Cleopatra" and could see and hear the fire burning, exploding and
cresting behind the stage of the theatre. Before the blaze was brought under
control, nearly 5,000 acres were blackened.
-
-
- Growth
& Expansion
-
- The
new Ashland Community Hospital, a 35-bed facility, was built on Maple Street
in 1961 at a cost of $507,180. It has grown substantially in size, and in
services offered, ever since. The old hospital building
was taken over by
the college, used for a few years, then razed as part of the campus
expansion program.
-
- In
1963, the city council appointed an airport committee to study the
possibility of acquisition and expansion of Parker Field, the airstrip
adjacent to Dead Indian Road. Later that year, the site, which had been
leased, was purchased. In 1968, the airport runway was paved and lighted, a
small apron was paved, and an administration building was built. Ashland now
had a municipal airport.
-
- Interstate
5 was opened between Ashland's north and south interchanges in 1964. This
took the heavy traffic off Siskiyou Boulevard and North Main Street and out
of downtown Ashland, which was considered good, but at the same time there
was concern about the effects on business of "being bypassed."
-
- Ashland
grew physically and expanded in several directions during the 1960s. A new
Junior High School was built on Walker Avenue and the old Junior High School
site on Siskiyou Boulevard was converted to commercial use (Safeway store).
Commercial growth continued in the area of the college and along Oregon 66.
-
- The
Bellview district annexation in 1964, the largest annexation in the history
of Ashland, stimulated growth in this southern section of town and Quiet
Village, a large subdivision, stimulated growth in the north end of town. In
1966, Helman Elementary School was built to serve this developing
neighborhood.
-
- The
Mount Ashland Ski Lodge and Winter Sports Area was built during 1963-64
because of the
enthusiasm,
backing and dedication of winter sports enthusiasts and businessmen who felt
there was economic potential in an expanded tourist season.
-
- The
Shakespearean Festival continued to bring more and more visitors to Ashland
each summer. The outdoor theatre, completed in 1959, had a seating capacity
of 1189 and frequently was filled. Plans were started for an indoor theatre.
The Angus Bowmer Theatre, seating 600, opened in the spring of 1970. With
this facility, the theatre season was extended into the spring, fall and
winter.
-
-
- Planning
for the Future
-
- The
1960s brought change to both the face and community life of Ashland. A new
awareness of the necessity for planning for growth resulted in a update to
the 1946 zoning ordinance in 1964, and the first sign code in 1967. There
was more concern about the appearance of buildings. A project was undertaken
in 1973 to add visual enhancement to the Main Street commercial area with
trees, planters and decorative streetlights. Utility lines were buried
underground.
-
- Tourism
had, by now, become a major recognized source of income in Ashland. Artists
and craftspeople opened studios and shops, motels and restaurants were
filled with visitors. There was concern, however, over lack of a stable
economic base. A wood products plant, one lumber mill, a tank and steel
manufacturing plant, a firm that manufactured dental office equipment --
this, for the most part, comprised the source of Ashland's
"industrial" payroll. For "new money" the community was
heavily dependent upon the college, the schools, governmental agencies, and
tourists. Economic Development Commissions, it seemed, could sell livability
more easily than they could sell plant location.
-
- During
the 1960s, through the medium of television, the people of Ashland watched
with horror the fighting in Vietnam. Never had a war seemed so close, yet so
far. They knew that some local young men were there, and that from time to
time some local young men completed their tour of duty and returned home.
They also knew that much of the unrest in the nation and on the local
college campus was the result of this undeclared war. It was also through
television that Ashland witnessed the assassination of President John F.
Kennedy in November 1963, and the landing of American astronauts Buzz Aldrin
and Neil Armstrong on the moon in 1969.
-
-
- Historic
Awareness
-
- In
the early 1970s, Mayor Archie Fries appointed a committee of five women to
serve as Ashland's first official Historic Preservation Committee. This step
echoed an interest growing throughout the country in historic architecture
and the past it reflected. Aesthetic awareness and economic necessity
combined to encourage interest in the restoration and conservation of older
commercial buildings and homes. Newly refurbished building facades
brightened the face of the community. Historic preservation became a
recognized part of Ashland's profile.
-
- The
1960s and 1970s also brought new faces to Ashland. The college encouraged
foreign students and American black students; cultural exchange programs,
most notably with Guanajuato, Mexico, gave many Ashland young people the
opportunity to experience life in other countries. Ashland began to attract
retirees, people whose professions allowed them to live wherever they chose,
and those who were withdrawing from a kind of lifestyle fostered by larger
cities. They came because they found Ashland beautiful and, for the most
part, accepting.
-
- Ashland
today is a unique mixture of longtime residents, retirees, workers,
alternate lifestyle folks, students, artists, business people, and others,
all tied together with an uncommon love and concern for our community,
continuing Ashland's heritage into the future.
-
-
- Historic
Preservation
-
- Many
buildings and sites in and around Ashland are of historic interest due to
age, design and association with historic events or people. These resources
represent a unique part of Ashland. The identification, protection and
preservation of these resources is critical in maintaining Ashland's
cultural integrity and attractiveness and enables eligible property owners
to take advantage of special legislative measures and tax benefits. Several
adaptive uses have appeared throughout older districts and the City has
strongly supported uses and restorations of historic structures, and in the
decade of the 1980's restored City Hall, the Ashland Community Center,
Pioneer Hall, the Carter Memorial Statue, the Butler-Perozzi Fountain, and
the Abraham Lincoln Statue.
-
- The
Downtown Commercial District, the Railroad Addition, the Siskiyou-Hargadine
District and the Skidmore Academy District comprise four historic interest
areas in Ashland at the present time. Each is distinctive, but with the
others forms the core of our historic resources. The Commercial District
extends roughly from the Plaza to Gresham Street along East Main Street. The
Railroad Addition is adjacent on the northeast, the Siskiyou-Hargadine
District to the southwest, and the Skidmore Academy District to the
northwest.
-
- The
Downtown
Commercial District, with resources ranging in date from 1879 to 1937,
evolved as businesses moved out East Main Street from the Plaza. Vernacular
brick structures, the eclectic former Lithia Springs Hotel, the Ashland
Public Library, the former First National Bank, the Citizens Banking and
Trust Company and the Varsity Theatre highlight the area. Several buildings
were designed by prominent Rogue Valley architect Frank Chamberlain Clark,
including the Elks and Enders Buildings.
-
- The
Railroad Addition developed with the Oregon and California Railroad's
arrival in 1884. Most of the extant buildings date from periods of intense
growth, notably 1884-890, and 1898-1910, and represent a variety of
architectural styles. The Railroad Addition has particularly significant
historic associations with the railroad worker and laborer families who
occupied the area during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
-
- The
Siskiyou-Hargadine area is primarily composed of several additions platted
in 1888, the year the final rail link occurred at Ashland. Exceptions are
the Beach and Hargadine Tracts, laid out before the railroad's impact. The
majority of historic structures date between 1888 and 1925, and a wide range
of residence style and scale appears. Siskiyou Boulevard is lined with
dwellings whose associations with prominent Ashland citizens and
architectural diversity lend a particular significance.
-
- The
Skidmore Academy District, named in honor of the early Methodist College
which stood on North Main Street, contains within its boundaries much of the
Original Town and some of Ashland's oldest resources. Several of Ashland's
earliest families, as well as citizens prominent in commerce or the
professions, chose this area to live. North Main Street, one of the two
oldest entrances to Ashland, constitutes a highly visible and significant
presence in the town's configuration.
-
- The
four historic interest areas were formally delineated in 1984 when the City
of Ashland asked the Oregon State Historic Preservation Office for an
opinion regarding its eligibility for inclusion in the National Register of
Historic Places in preparation for an extensive housing rehabilitation
project. An architectural field survey was conducted that year on all
properties within the three pertinent residential areas. During ensuing
years, the Historic Commission worked closely with City staff and property
owners to monitor construction, remodeling or demolition within the
districts.
-
- In
1988-1990 the Historic District was surveyed and historic research completed
for all properties to determine their historic significance. Approximately
800 properties were evaluated for relative
significance
according to National Register criteria. Indexed volumes of inventory sheets
and qualitative evaluation material are available for City staff and public
use.
-
- The
Ashland Cultural Resources Inventory is an evolving project to which
information should be added or deleted when necessary. Additional resources
may emerge and new information may require reassessment of a property's
significance. While over thirty individual Ashland properties are listed in
the National Register of Historic Places, more nominations, either singly or
in districts, may be initiated. New challenges lie ahead. Individual
properties as well as neighborhoods need to be surveyed, design guidelines
should be explored, and continued public education must be pursued.
Ashland's rich historical heritage deserves the continued efforts of the
public, the Historic Commission and City staff to ensure that the buildings,
landscapes and streetscapes, tangible evidence of that heritage, are
protected.
-
- The text for this History of Ashland was taken from and is
part of the City
of Ashland Comprehensive Plan. The links to photographs and other
Internet sites were added.
-
-
- Other Links
- Notes
from Abel Helman's Journal
- Hills
to Oregon, about the Isaac Hill family who moved to Ashland in 1852
-